Ngaruawahia Regatta 2009 - Nau mai, Haere mai

A couple of weeks ago I journeyed back to Aotearoa - New Zealand, the land of my birth, my forebears and family. It was a lightening visit to see an event I have only heard about for the many years previous. I knew it ran in March but had never timed my previous visits to coincide before. I had heard from some of the whanau (family) that it can be hair on the back of your neck stuff, and whilst I was caught up in the excitement of the two rows these wonderfully hand crafted waka's (canoes) made, I did have that tingle sensation for the briefest moment when I paused to drink in the moment. I imagined it to transform me back in time.

The Ngaruawahia Regatta has been held annually for over 100 years. This regatta not only celebrates but also helps to preserve New Zealand's history and Maori culture. Ngaruawahia, a town approx 100 kilometres south of Auckland, is the centre of the Kingitanga territory (Maori King movement) and is where Turangawaewae Marae, the home of the Maori King Tūheitia Paki, whom I photographed.

The Maori King movement (Te Kingitanga) began when Chief Pōtatau Te Wherowhero was crowned the first Maori King in 1858. The movement was started in order to unify the Maori people of Aotearoa, as they faced loss of land and power to colonial forces.

In 1860, Pōtatau’s son Tāwhiao took the throne. Three years later the Waikato war commenced, and Tāwhiao led his people to the area that is consequently now known as King Country.

Tāwhiao’s son Mahuta took the throne in 1894, succeeded by his son, Te Rata, in 1912. Te Rata’s son Korokī became King in 1933.

In 1966, Te Ātairangikaahu, Korokī’s daughter took the throne. Dame Te Ātairangikaahu held the longest reign of the Kingitanga (40 years) before her death in August, 2006. Her eldest son Tūheitia Paki was then crowned the new Maori King.

The second Maori King - Tawhiao stated " Ko Ngaruawahia taku turangawaewae (Ngaruawahia shall be my footstool)."
And Ngaruawahia remains so to this day. The Maori tribe which resides here is Tainui (pronounced Tie noo-ee) of which I am a small member.

The first unofficial regatta in Ngaruawahia was held in 1892 and involved both Maori and Pakeha festivities. Many early European Ngaruawahia settlers were from the militia and had fought against Maori in the land wars. But by choosing to live in the Waikato area where Ngaruawahia is the centre, there was no doubt these early residents would "rub shoulders" with the Maori people. The regatta provided a meeting point to bring the two peoples together socially and culturally. Perhaps it is thus fitting then that symbolically Ngaruawahia has been built where two rivers, the Waikato and Waipa, come together.

Ngaruawahia is one of the oldest and most interesting historic settlements in New Zealand. A main characteristic of Ngaruawahia is its strong cultural ties. The early Ngaruawahia settlers may not have realised they were sowing seeds for one of the biggest aquatic festivals in New Zealand when earlier regattas were held.

New Zealand is a sailing nation, with a deep-rooted maritime history. Our Polynesian ancestors sailed to our shores in large waka (Maori canoes) and today, Maori people can still trace their whakapapa (family history or geneology) back to the waka their family came to New Zealand in.

Replicas of these waka appear at the Ngaruawahia regatta each year and make for an impressive sight with the rowers in native dress and when the men row down the waikato river chanting the Maori haka they look and sound majestic. It hearkened ones soul to another time.

The pictures of the raised oars in the air is done as a salute to the king.

I took a few pictures of the king but only placed one here, Maori are very conscious of the images and where and how they will be used, certainly something I understand, and I believe I have accorded due deference to the king, and the participants of the wakas. It is an event that I believe IS worth recording and sharing, it is a small measure to document a tradition and connection to the culture that may be small on an international level, but very powerful a symbol.

I recall a Time Magazine cover some years ago when then Prime Minister David Lange said no to US nuclear ships entering New Zealand waters, the headline said with a picture of the Prime Minister, The Mouse that Roared, and I think that sums up the small nation of New Zealand, small but powerful. There is a strength, an acceptance and a pride here that evokes much emotion.

Lastly, one of the other benefits that cannot go unmentioned is the opportunity I had to catch up with members of my family, brothers and sisters, nieces and nephews, their partners and families, whom I love very much. The visit may have been fleeting but the feelings are long treasured.